Even in a warm year such as 2018
were jealously guarded wines until the early 1960s
This is not fustian traditionalism for its own sake
Polished and lightly austere
A half-finished bottle on a zinc counter while someone tears apart a loaf of bread with their hands kind of French
La Varenne Chinon Tradition Tempranillo Blend Even in a warm yearLa Varenne Chinon Tradition opens with a cooler, more woodland register tart cranberry and red currant giving way to dried violets, bay leaf, and a faint whiff of pencil shavings. On the palate it stays taut and restrained, carrying flavors of sour cherry, savory olive, and damp forest floor, framed by fine, sandy tannins and a subtle snap of white pepper. The finish is brisk and mineral, edged with iron and wet stone, quietly refreshing and